When my son Tim traveled to Japan in February 2009 in our extended family group to see Australia play Japan at Yokohama, Tim lost his wallet and passport lost - or had it stolen. The circumstances are a bit murky, but suffice to say that sleeping on the street outside a railway station somewhere near Yokohama is not necessarily a sensible idea.
Being Dad, I went with Tim as he reported the loss to the JR Railway Police as well as the Metropolitan Police. Also being Dad, I did point out Tim's apparent slack attitude to personal security.
Fast forward to August 1, 2011 at Matsumoto. A great afternoon with Matsumoto City Government officials extends to a convivial few hours at Fire Station #21. Yuri Kashiwazawa drops me off at the New Station Hotel, I wander upstairs to my room, sit down on the bed, the building and the bed rock with another earthquake - and I can't find my wallet!
I work through each time I took it out to share business cards. Has to be at the Fire Station. No big deal.
Next morning, I email off to Yuri about my loss, asking if he might be able to have some one look around the Fire Station. Nothing else I could do, so off I go to Kamacochi for the day. Returning to the hotel, I have a note from Yuri that the wallet has been found by a 'government official' on the street at the front of the firestation. Yuri also advises he will pick me up at 8:30am the next morning to take me to the Police Station to collect it.
With Yuri's support and translation, the wallet is retrieved. Intact. All cards. And the 25,000 Yen. Gotta love Japan.
This blog now at www.tonyj2japan.wordpress.com
- Tony and Veronica Jarrett
- Hazelbrook, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
- A world Cup football game between Australia and Japan in Yokohama was the driver for Tony's first trip to Japan in February 2009. Since then, Veronica and Tony have traveled together, and Tony has been back two more times - an abbreviated holiday in March, 2011 at the time of the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami, and in July/August, 2011.
Guide to Nikko World Heritage Area and Tochigi Prefecture
Travelling to Japan soon? Not sure of which highlights to take in? Check out the great downloads at the Japan National Tourism Organisation website.
Be sure to take in the cultural and spiritual history of Japan at the Nikko World Heritage area about 2 hours by train north of Tokyo. Nikko is at the foot of Mt. Nyoho-san in western Tochigi and has developed as the temple town for Futara-san-jinja Shrine, Toshogu Shrine and Rin-no-ji Temple.
Get the most out of your visit to the Nikko World Heritage area is by engaging a local guide. While there are incredible visual treats to take in, there can be important elements missed, for no other reason than limited English language translations at the monuments, shrines and temples.
I was lucky enough to have Yoshiko Horie guide me around the key Nikko shrines and temples in her volunteer role with the Nikko SGG (Systematic Guide Group).
I can recommend Yoshiko's knowledge and interest, and her willingness to share the tremendous culture of Nikko with us foreigners!
Be sure to take in the cultural and spiritual history of Japan at the Nikko World Heritage area about 2 hours by train north of Tokyo. Nikko is at the foot of Mt. Nyoho-san in western Tochigi and has developed as the temple town for Futara-san-jinja Shrine, Toshogu Shrine and Rin-no-ji Temple.
Get the most out of your visit to the Nikko World Heritage area is by engaging a local guide. While there are incredible visual treats to take in, there can be important elements missed, for no other reason than limited English language translations at the monuments, shrines and temples.
I can recommend Yoshiko's knowledge and interest, and her willingness to share the tremendous culture of Nikko with us foreigners!
Fire Station 21, Matsumoto, Japan - Monday 1 August
Matsumoto Fire Station #21 covers Uchida and Kotobukidai areas south-east of Matsumoto CBD where 2,646 households and 6,357 residents are there. This cross-cultural exchange had been arranged via Yuri at the Matsumoto City Government (see another post on Volunteer Guides). One of his colleagues is a member of this Fire Brigade.
With typical Japanese precision and punctuality, Yuri got me there right on the appointed time of 8:00pm. On the apron were 3 or 4 fire fighters looking over equipment, running pumps and the like. With Yuri acting as interpreter, I got the gist from the Brigade Captain that this team had many similarities to my Hazelbrook Brigade:
As with all fire trucks in Japan, their 2 vehicles were immaculate. Not a scratch, everything polished. Even plastic over the seats! I was proudly shown the $A20,000 portable pump the Brigade recently purchased. Bloody hell! Takes 4 people to carry, but suits the needs of this Brigade where small roads and laneways mean accessing fires is always going to be difficult.
After 10 minutes or so on the apron, then upstairs for the meeting. I did ask how many members turn up usually for the meeting/training, and 10-15 are expected. The meeting had already started well and truly, with many cans of beer and empty food plates strewn around. This looked familiar my my fire station!
Through broken english and my interpreter buddy, we talked a lot about our respective roles, and the nature of volunteerism in Japan, and the long history of fire-fighting. Fascinating stuff. Again the similarities were uncanny - members of #21 Fire Station came from varied backgrounds including farmers, truck drivers, an architect, an electrician.
Each of the farmers bought in their produce for sharing at the 'meeting'. Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons. In line with my desire for cultural immersion and personal enrichment, I also gave other local fare a go. Like the fleshy stuff swilling around in cold black broth. Pass it round boys, yum. And what was that? Something from the ocean, and it got a good laugh when I ate it. Probably marinated cuttlefish.
I took with me a series of RFS action photos, but there was no computer at the Station. I had printed out a thumbnail of each photo and had a few word description of each in English and Japanese (thanks to BabelFish). This went down a treat and generated a lot of discussion of forest fires in Australia and particularly in my Blue Mountains home.
I got the Blue Mountains Christmas Fires DVD playing in the background as we continued to eat, drink and more increasingly talk crap. I must say though, that attention was quickly drawn to the video when the money shots of 30m flames roaring up and over fire fighters came on. No common language needed to interpret shock and awe.
My status as a visitor also meant that there seemed to be people assigned to refilling my cup of beer every time I took a swig. What I can't work out is, if I never got to finish a single cup, how come I found it quite a challenge to stand up straight and to speak without a little slur. All for the betterment of cultural exchange I say.
As the visit was pre-arranged, I had my RFS blues, and bought with me a collectors yellow shirt. This was proudly worn by the Captain. I had heard one guy being referred to as 'koala' during the night, and by chance I had a koala toy to give him. Funny as! In appreciation of the help he had given me during the day, I gave Yuri an RFS cap.
I have always found Japanese people to be very hospitable and generous. At this point, the guys were obviously discussing what they would give me in return, and what they did was extremely humbling. For various festivals and community events, all firefighters in Japan have a particular "Happi Coat" which is like a coat of arms, and indicates the organisation you belong to. They go back to the 1600's. I was presented with a Happi Coat.
In addition, I was presented with a Fire Officers cap. While my head is way too big for the cap, the generosity shown to me was, as I said, humbling.
Then to cap it off (no pun intended) as I was leaving the whole crew came downstairs and gave me a formal send off, including a salute. It really was a fantastic experience. In fact, of all the good things that have happened in what is now 4 visits to Japan over 30 months, this ranks in the top 2.
With typical Japanese precision and punctuality, Yuri got me there right on the appointed time of 8:00pm. On the apron were 3 or 4 fire fighters looking over equipment, running pumps and the like. With Yuri acting as interpreter, I got the gist from the Brigade Captain that this team had many similarities to my Hazelbrook Brigade:
- 45 members, about 25 active, about 10 likely to turnout for a call;
- 2 calls a month on average;
- many members work in the CBD, up to an hour away;
- very few young people joining. Most members 35 to 50yo;
- servicing a rural community on the foothills of the mountains;
- get together for meeting/training once a month;
As with all fire trucks in Japan, their 2 vehicles were immaculate. Not a scratch, everything polished. Even plastic over the seats! I was proudly shown the $A20,000 portable pump the Brigade recently purchased. Bloody hell! Takes 4 people to carry, but suits the needs of this Brigade where small roads and laneways mean accessing fires is always going to be difficult. 
After 10 minutes or so on the apron, then upstairs for the meeting. I did ask how many members turn up usually for the meeting/training, and 10-15 are expected. The meeting had already started well and truly, with many cans of beer and empty food plates strewn around. This looked familiar my my fire station! 
Through broken english and my interpreter buddy, we talked a lot about our respective roles, and the nature of volunteerism in Japan, and the long history of fire-fighting. Fascinating stuff. Again the similarities were uncanny - members of #21 Fire Station came from varied backgrounds including farmers, truck drivers, an architect, an electrician.Each of the farmers bought in their produce for sharing at the 'meeting'. Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons. In line with my desire for cultural immersion and personal enrichment, I also gave other local fare a go. Like the fleshy stuff swilling around in cold black broth. Pass it round boys, yum. And what was that? Something from the ocean, and it got a good laugh when I ate it. Probably marinated cuttlefish.
I took with me a series of RFS action photos, but there was no computer at the Station. I had printed out a thumbnail of each photo and had a few word description of each in English and Japanese (thanks to BabelFish). This went down a treat and generated a lot of discussion of forest fires in Australia and particularly in my Blue Mountains home.
I got the Blue Mountains Christmas Fires DVD playing in the background as we continued to eat, drink and more increasingly talk crap. I must say though, that attention was quickly drawn to the video when the money shots of 30m flames roaring up and over fire fighters came on. No common language needed to interpret shock and awe.
My status as a visitor also meant that there seemed to be people assigned to refilling my cup of beer every time I took a swig. What I can't work out is, if I never got to finish a single cup, how come I found it quite a challenge to stand up straight and to speak without a little slur. All for the betterment of cultural exchange I say.
As the visit was pre-arranged, I had my RFS blues, and bought with me a collectors yellow shirt. This was proudly worn by the Captain. I had heard one guy being referred to as 'koala' during the night, and by chance I had a koala toy to give him. Funny as! In appreciation of the help he had given me during the day, I gave Yuri an RFS cap.
I have always found Japanese people to be very hospitable and generous. At this point, the guys were obviously discussing what they would give me in return, and what they did was extremely humbling. For various festivals and community events, all firefighters in Japan have a particular "Happi Coat" which is like a coat of arms, and indicates the organisation you belong to. They go back to the 1600's. I was presented with a Happi Coat.
In addition, I was presented with a Fire Officers cap. While my head is way too big for the cap, the generosity shown to me was, as I said, humbling.
Then to cap it off (no pun intended) as I was leaving the whole crew came downstairs and gave me a formal send off, including a salute. It really was a fantastic experience. In fact, of all the good things that have happened in what is now 4 visits to Japan over 30 months, this ranks in the top 2.
Japan is not expensive
Contrary to many well known travel guides, Japan is not an expensive place to visit.
On average over 12 nights, accommodation was Y5,900 per night, about $A80. For Tokyo (Terminal Hotel, Ueno) and Matsumoto (New Station Hotel), both very very comfortable 3-Star hotels, and were booked via Hotels.Com and Expedia. These single rooms both included TV, tea making, decent shower/bath and comfortable beds. I take the view that the room is just a place to sleep and don't get hung up on the finery. Yes the rooms are small, but does it matter? The key for me is access, choose a place within a few hundred metres of the transport hubs. They aren't hard to find.
At Nikko, I chose to stay at the Nikko Park Lodge which is hostel type accommodation.Through a mix-up with my booking, I ended up having a 'suite' which is unusual for a hostel. It actually was bigger than the Ueno and Matsumoto hotels, and had a small kitchen as well! Great value, fantastic view.
All the other costs bundled up (food, beer, transport, entry fees etc) averaged Y8,000 per day - about $A100. If that daily cost (Y14,000 or $180) is too much - just delete the beer! A beer generally costs more that a decent meal! Then again, delete the food and keep the beer.
On average over 12 nights, accommodation was Y5,900 per night, about $A80. For Tokyo (Terminal Hotel, Ueno) and Matsumoto (New Station Hotel), both very very comfortable 3-Star hotels, and were booked via Hotels.Com and Expedia. These single rooms both included TV, tea making, decent shower/bath and comfortable beds. I take the view that the room is just a place to sleep and don't get hung up on the finery. Yes the rooms are small, but does it matter? The key for me is access, choose a place within a few hundred metres of the transport hubs. They aren't hard to find.
At Nikko, I chose to stay at the Nikko Park Lodge which is hostel type accommodation.Through a mix-up with my booking, I ended up having a 'suite' which is unusual for a hostel. It actually was bigger than the Ueno and Matsumoto hotels, and had a small kitchen as well! Great value, fantastic view.
All the other costs bundled up (food, beer, transport, entry fees etc) averaged Y8,000 per day - about $A100. If that daily cost (Y14,000 or $180) is too much - just delete the beer! A beer generally costs more that a decent meal! Then again, delete the food and keep the beer.
Photography & Beer Museums at Ebisu - Thursday 28th July
The Ebisu Garden Palace is an office, shopping and cultural precinct that includes the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography and the Yebisu Beer Museum. Heading for the Beer Museum, the Museum of Photography was a nice surprise. There were 4 major exhibitions going on, and given it was already beer-o-clock, I just went for two. The Story of Children in Photography was interesting in that it ran through the evolution of photography, the pioneers and technology.
The Enari Tsuneo exhibition Japan and its Forgotten War - Showa was something else. Tsuneo is a photojournalist who has devoted nearly 40 years to documenting the negative consequences of Japan's Showa era wars, on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Fales Manchukuo, The Children's Manchukuo, and Island of Wailing Ghosts. Check out the link.
Black and white photography can be stunning at the best of times, and Tsuneo is an expert. In the Hiroshima and Nagasaki elements, a black and white portrait of an atomic bomb survivor is next to a colour image of a bomb relic - melted glass, a burnt cap. and then another portrait and the cycle continues. The juxtaposition is stunning and is reflected in the those aged survivors who, at least, are 70 years old. What horrors do these eyes portray? How had their lives been directed by the atomic bombs? Haunting.
Back into the real world......the Beer Museum. A bit disappointing really, not much history and back story, rather just an up market beer tasting lounge. Did top it off though with a very nice Yebisu beer from the Beer Hall next door.
Hama-ryku Gardens - Thursday 28th July
When Veronica and I were here in September 2009, we took this tourist ferry to Hinode Pier. This time, Hama-ryku Gardens were my target. In 2009, the ferry was packed with lots of overseas visitors and locals. This time around, it was barely a quarter full, reflecting the uncomfortable rainy season but more the drastic drop off in tourism since the March earthquake and tsunami.
The gardens present another stark contrast to the dense built up environment that surround. It is absolutely quiet, the pond waters still and glassy. People wander around in quiet contemplation. Yet turn around and there is the un-escapable reality of Tokyo high rise offices. 
Hama-ryku Garden is the family garden of the Tokugawa Shogun. Nice work if you can get it. The Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house originated in 1707. It is these sorts of cultural relics that draw me to Japan.
The entrance fee is a reasonable 500Y and includes Green Tea served with a confection. For us tourists, you were also provided with a cheat sheet to explain what you did and when - like holding the cup in your left hand, and rotating it clockwise 180 degrees. Might sound corny, but in this setting it did let my imagination run wild - hey is that Shintaro over in trees?
Unfortunately my genetic hip condition did not allow me to squat on the floor, so I could not completely transport myself back to Shogun times.
Just got to mention Shimbashi Station, the nearest to Hama-ryku. The station is set in the bowels of a complex of 3 new office towers. it is 7 star quality. Granite and marble pasages leading to the centre of the earth. As if David jones basement had trains running through it. I little bit different than Penriff.
 |
| Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house |
Hama-ryku Garden is the family garden of the Tokugawa Shogun. Nice work if you can get it. The Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house originated in 1707. It is these sorts of cultural relics that draw me to Japan.
The entrance fee is a reasonable 500Y and includes Green Tea served with a confection. For us tourists, you were also provided with a cheat sheet to explain what you did and when - like holding the cup in your left hand, and rotating it clockwise 180 degrees. Might sound corny, but in this setting it did let my imagination run wild - hey is that Shintaro over in trees?
 |
| Hama-ryku Gardens |
Just got to mention Shimbashi Station, the nearest to Hama-ryku. The station is set in the bowels of a complex of 3 new office towers. it is 7 star quality. Granite and marble pasages leading to the centre of the earth. As if David jones basement had trains running through it. I little bit different than Penriff.
It's pay back time - Thursday 28th July
I have only ever experienced fantastic service and hospitality from Japanese people to me as a tourist. already in these 2 days I have been afforded service and support only dreamed of at home. But this little anecdote is not about them, its about me.
It may come as a surprise to some of you, but I really am a nice guy. Today on the Taito Community Bus service from Ueno to Asakusa, a person who well and truly met the aged criteria for AIDER services, this bloke stood up to get out at the same stop as me. But he caught his shopping bag on the seat and became flummaxed as older people can get. I unhooked him and we got out together. The smile and repeated words of thanks (I hope, anyway) was uplifting.
Being nice - as Japanese folk do all the time to me - is not bound by language.
It may come as a surprise to some of you, but I really am a nice guy. Today on the Taito Community Bus service from Ueno to Asakusa, a person who well and truly met the aged criteria for AIDER services, this bloke stood up to get out at the same stop as me. But he caught his shopping bag on the seat and became flummaxed as older people can get. I unhooked him and we got out together. The smile and repeated words of thanks (I hope, anyway) was uplifting.
Being nice - as Japanese folk do all the time to me - is not bound by language.
Commuters - Thursday 28th July
Having got up real early to ring Veronica, I wandered around looking for a cafe place. Found one, at the end of an orderly queue of office commuters who were patiently waiting for the doors to open at 7:30am. I have seen some good queues in my days in Japan, but this one would have to be in my top 2. Precise spacing. Still, not hopping from foot to foot. Against the wall and out of the way of other pedestrians.
Chowing down with my Japanese fare of my latte from one of those instant machines, and my ham and cheese toasty, I sat next to an office worker at the bench looking out onto Asakusa-dori. No glances, no conversation, both of us fixed. And we weren't the only ones doing this, we had probably thousands of comrades doing the same thing this morning.
Chowing down with my Japanese fare of my latte from one of those instant machines, and my ham and cheese toasty, I sat next to an office worker at the bench looking out onto Asakusa-dori. No glances, no conversation, both of us fixed. And we weren't the only ones doing this, we had probably thousands of comrades doing the same thing this morning.
Tokyo revisited - Wednesday 27th July
Left the printed itinerary at home again, but atleast this time I had it on a thumb drive to print out sometime. My room at the Ueno Terminal Hotel is just about big enough to swing a cat in, but comfortable and reflects the price I paid for it. (6,100 yen is about $80).
Another bit of detaiｌ Ｉ ｌｅｆｔ ｂｅｈｉｎｄ ｗａｓ the local dialing codes to make international phone calls. Now that took some work to find, but the first contact back with Veronica was the absolute priority.
Don't call me a train spotter, but.....I took the Toden Arakawa Line street car from Minowabashi to Waseda. One of 2 remaining street car lines in Tokyo, it was a great 15km trip through the suburbs of northern Tokyo. For real train spotter action, I saw a guy at Ebisu station (JR Yamanote Line if you must) with a long recording mike stretching up to the ceiling mounted speaker, to record the details of the next train action. And I just thought is was the British.
Off to the J-League Football to see Kawasaki Frontale play Hiroshima Sanfrecce in a Japan Cup game at Shinmaruko. Absolutely fantastic. And the marketing...you don't see this at a Sydney FC game. Outside the Stadium, there is a great park, and in it must have been 20 tents and stalls selling merchandise, food and drinks, and running activities. Thousands of Kawasaki fans (especially families) hung around here. And you could take your food and drink into the ground!
When I got in to find a seat (I got a ticket to the general area) there were bags, books and clothes all over the good seats. What's this? People mark out their territory and then go elsewhere to chat, eat and drink. Can you picture this at an Aussie footy game?
We even had a 'seat nazi' who would greet new fans as they came up the stairs and find them the required number of seats. This includes moving people over one or two seats, so that single spare seats are used up. Had to see it to believe it, and all the locals are absolutely comfortable with it.
And... what about the person who comes around during the game to collect rubbish? Or the people at every exit stair again with bags to collect rubbish?
The Japanese soccer fans are world renowned for their fanaticism - but it is an inclusive form. Songs are sung the whole game (90 minutes for those non-believers) not just by the core fan group who lead the singing and drum beats, but men, women, young and old in the whole ground. Quite spectacular and exciting. By the way, Kawasaki Frontale won 3 - 1. By coincidence, my Sydney FC jersey was the same colour as Kawasaki, so I looked like a home fan. Well, apart from the causcasian look, grey hair, hairy legs, round eyes and .............
Travelling back to Ueno at 9:30pm the trains coming from Tokyo were absolutely packed - and trains on most lines run every 5 minutes or so.. Surely these thousands of people actually live on those trains.
Another bit of detaiｌ Ｉ ｌｅｆｔ ｂｅｈｉｎｄ ｗａｓ the local dialing codes to make international phone calls. Now that took some work to find, but the first contact back with Veronica was the absolute priority.
Don't call me a train spotter, but.....I took the Toden Arakawa Line street car from Minowabashi to Waseda. One of 2 remaining street car lines in Tokyo, it was a great 15km trip through the suburbs of northern Tokyo. For real train spotter action, I saw a guy at Ebisu station (JR Yamanote Line if you must) with a long recording mike stretching up to the ceiling mounted speaker, to record the details of the next train action. And I just thought is was the British.
Off to the J-League Football to see Kawasaki Frontale play Hiroshima Sanfrecce in a Japan Cup game at Shinmaruko. Absolutely fantastic. And the marketing...you don't see this at a Sydney FC game. Outside the Stadium, there is a great park, and in it must have been 20 tents and stalls selling merchandise, food and drinks, and running activities. Thousands of Kawasaki fans (especially families) hung around here. And you could take your food and drink into the ground!
When I got in to find a seat (I got a ticket to the general area) there were bags, books and clothes all over the good seats. What's this? People mark out their territory and then go elsewhere to chat, eat and drink. Can you picture this at an Aussie footy game?
We even had a 'seat nazi' who would greet new fans as they came up the stairs and find them the required number of seats. This includes moving people over one or two seats, so that single spare seats are used up. Had to see it to believe it, and all the locals are absolutely comfortable with it.
And... what about the person who comes around during the game to collect rubbish? Or the people at every exit stair again with bags to collect rubbish?
The Japanese soccer fans are world renowned for their fanaticism - but it is an inclusive form. Songs are sung the whole game (90 minutes for those non-believers) not just by the core fan group who lead the singing and drum beats, but men, women, young and old in the whole ground. Quite spectacular and exciting. By the way, Kawasaki Frontale won 3 - 1. By coincidence, my Sydney FC jersey was the same colour as Kawasaki, so I looked like a home fan. Well, apart from the causcasian look, grey hair, hairy legs, round eyes and .............
Travelling back to Ueno at 9:30pm the trains coming from Tokyo were absolutely packed - and trains on most lines run every 5 minutes or so.. Surely these thousands of people actually live on those trains.
Fying Sydney to Narita - Tuesday 26th August
This time things were smoother - no changes to flight plans. But funny how other things pop up. \you know when you are checking in a two groups of about 100 high school kids goes to the Group Check-in Counter and you wonder where they will be seated?
Well when I chose one of the 2-seaters at the back of the plane, it did not say 'you and your seat buddy are the only adults in the 30 rows at the back of the plane'. Having said that - Japanese adults sleep anywhere, especially in trains. And these kids have learnt well as they all went off to sleep before the plane was taxi-ing out from the Gate.
Well when I chose one of the 2-seaters at the back of the plane, it did not say 'you and your seat buddy are the only adults in the 30 rows at the back of the plane'. Having said that - Japanese adults sleep anywhere, especially in trains. And these kids have learnt well as they all went off to sleep before the plane was taxi-ing out from the Gate.
Where to next? Why Japan of course.
I came home with around 80,000Y, so I spent about 45,000Y over the 3 days, 15,000Y being for the Nozomi ride from Shinagawa to Kyoto. Worth every yen!
Do I exchange the yen back for Aussie dollar? Nope, put it away for the next Japan excursion.
A couple of options come up. I think Tokyo will still be problematic for some months with the continuing rolling power outages. Thus transport around that part of the country will be disrupted for some time.
Notwithstanding my Jetstar experience, using Osaka as the entry point gives access to central Japan and southwards, where the impacts of the tsunami and the radiation issues will be minimal. Blue Mountains City Council has a sister-city relationship with Sanda City, about 50kms north-west of Osaka. Maybe Sanda can be used as a base.
In March next year, the Asian Champions League will be on again. This time Central Coast will be playing. The way the competition is structured, a team from Japan and a team from South Korea is in each group. With my brother Andrew and his mates already making plans for Japan (or Korea as a fall back), I know I will get to Japan again.
Look out for a Blog for the Central Coast Mariners 2012 trip.
 |
at the Great Bell, Todaiji Temple |
Do I exchange the yen back for Aussie dollar? Nope, put it away for the next Japan excursion.
A couple of options come up. I think Tokyo will still be problematic for some months with the continuing rolling power outages. Thus transport around that part of the country will be disrupted for some time.
Notwithstanding my Jetstar experience, using Osaka as the entry point gives access to central Japan and southwards, where the impacts of the tsunami and the radiation issues will be minimal. Blue Mountains City Council has a sister-city relationship with Sanda City, about 50kms north-west of Osaka. Maybe Sanda can be used as a base.
In March next year, the Asian Champions League will be on again. This time Central Coast will be playing. The way the competition is structured, a team from Japan and a team from South Korea is in each group. With my brother Andrew and his mates already making plans for Japan (or Korea as a fall back), I know I will get to Japan again.
Look out for a Blog for the Central Coast Mariners 2012 trip.
The expensive long weekend is over - Tuesday 15th March
Hey, what's money anyway? I often say to family and friends when the prospect of me and/or Veronica travelling comes up in conversation - I don't spend my money at the pub or on the pokies, travel is my 50's midlife crisis. Even more enticing when a football game is a drawcard.
Japan is often said to be expensive, but that really depends on your accommodation tastes, and whether you make your own way around, or travel in organised groups. A bed in decent hotels should only cost 5,000Y to 8,000Y (about $60 to $80).
Where this trip came unstuck money wise was my change in flights home. In my haste and desire to sort out flights quickly, I went online. Not able to get a flight until Wednesday night from Tokyo on Qantas (I had a return ticket for the next Sunday), I bought another one on Jetstar from Osaka for $600.
Back at home, I spoke to Qantas who said that had I phoned them they would have got me an earlier flight at no extra cost. Strong lesson learnt there!
What about travel insurance I hear you say. Well that is unresolved, but I am not hopeful as it was my choice to change flights online myself - there was no directive from the Australian Government to leave Tokyo (strongly worded advice though on the Smart Traveller website.)
Japan is often said to be expensive, but that really depends on your accommodation tastes, and whether you make your own way around, or travel in organised groups. A bed in decent hotels should only cost 5,000Y to 8,000Y (about $60 to $80).
Where this trip came unstuck money wise was my change in flights home. In my haste and desire to sort out flights quickly, I went online. Not able to get a flight until Wednesday night from Tokyo on Qantas (I had a return ticket for the next Sunday), I bought another one on Jetstar from Osaka for $600.
Back at home, I spoke to Qantas who said that had I phoned them they would have got me an earlier flight at no extra cost. Strong lesson learnt there!
What about travel insurance I hear you say. Well that is unresolved, but I am not hopeful as it was my choice to change flights online myself - there was no directive from the Australian Government to leave Tokyo (strongly worded advice though on the Smart Traveller website.)
Get out the blinkers and ear plugs! - Overnight Monday 14th March
Yes I can be a snob, short tempered and lack tolerance. All these hidden traits returned on the evening flight JQ20 from Osaka to Gold Coast.
When I first went to Japan, it was on the cheap, and only happened because Jetstar were commencing the Japan route and tickets were $520 return to Osaka. I'll have one of those I said. The flights were fine, but the wait time at Gold Coast both ways was long and painful, making the trip about 16 hours either way.
The second time with Veronica we decided to pay the extra freight and when with JAL on their direct flights. Day over, night back. Excellant. This time, I went for the Qantas direct flights because they were both night flights, thus eliminating 2 nights accommodation. All good so far. But then the need to change flights.
The choice
I could have come home via Cairns, but chose the Gold Coast route. Good choice, the Cairns plane was delayed 6 hours!!
The Korean Doll
With everyone seemingly seated, and adjacent seat vacant, I thought I had won the lottery. The only vacant seat on the plane, and its next to me! Alas, soon the Cabin Steward announced that 'we are waiting for one more passenger. We have found her at Immigration. She will be on board in a few minutes".
And then the Korean Doll walked in (at this stage I thought she was a very tall Japanese girl). Struggling down the aisle with - I kid you not - 3 items of hand luggage, she knocked a few people in the head as she opened up every locker looking for space. Funny that, no space.
The nice man I am, I actually help her get her things in by juggling locker items. Otherwise we would still be on the tarmac. She was grumbling something as she sat down, so I commented, not quite under my breath, what do you expect when you get on last?
And her bling! I thought Snoop Dog was re-incarnated!
The mobile phone
I forgot to mention the Korean Doll was on her mobile as she came on to the plane, and continued as we sat in the seat, taxied away, and were sitting at the end of the runway ready to go. Now I know it is a myth that mobile phones actually affect plane electronics nowadays, and that not using a mobile phone is more for passenger comfort. But hell, should she get away with this as well. No I hear you say. Another, not quite under my breath - turn off the phone. She did.
Ear plugs
The number of children on a plane increases expotentially as the fare discount increases. Thus JQ20 had about 20 kids under 5, plus babes in arms. Lucky I bought the trusty ear-plugs.
The bag rustler
A guy sat next to me in the lounge with a magazine in a brown plastic type, crunchy bag. When he took it out, I could not resist a peek - would this be a flash of flesh. No - it was a manga magazine. That guy sat in front of me in the plane, at least I knew he had something to read.
But he did not read it, he proceed to move the bag everywhere. Into the seat pocket. Into the overhead locker. Back into the seat pocket. Under his feet. Back into the locker. It was so bizarre I should have laughed, but at one stage I tapped him on the shoulder and in my best english told him to leave the book and its crunchy bag in the overhead locker. He proceeded to move it around again. I forgot to say that this did not happen in quick succession - no it happened like torture, with 30 minutes or so between every movement. It was so bizarre that a Cabin Steward also came down and asked him "is everything all right , Sir?". He didn't ask me.
Photos in the plane
I don't now whether it was 3:00am or 4:00am but I know I was asleep...until I thought I heard someone taking photos. Not just some simple point and click job like mine, but the digitised sound of a 35mm proper camera. Surely I must be dreaming.
No. It's JQ20. So the guy "one out one back" is busily shooting the TV screen in front of him. I worked out what he was doing. He was taking a shot of every screen as it scrolled through the tourist information for Australia!! Another: I kid you not. Now he got my best reaction. I turned around, leaned over, and gave a scowl, and lifted up one of my eye covers (I was wearing blinkers) so that he could see the white of my eye. I think he knew I meant business.
When I first went to Japan, it was on the cheap, and only happened because Jetstar were commencing the Japan route and tickets were $520 return to Osaka. I'll have one of those I said. The flights were fine, but the wait time at Gold Coast both ways was long and painful, making the trip about 16 hours either way.
The second time with Veronica we decided to pay the extra freight and when with JAL on their direct flights. Day over, night back. Excellant. This time, I went for the Qantas direct flights because they were both night flights, thus eliminating 2 nights accommodation. All good so far. But then the need to change flights.
The choice
I could have come home via Cairns, but chose the Gold Coast route. Good choice, the Cairns plane was delayed 6 hours!!
The Korean Doll
With everyone seemingly seated, and adjacent seat vacant, I thought I had won the lottery. The only vacant seat on the plane, and its next to me! Alas, soon the Cabin Steward announced that 'we are waiting for one more passenger. We have found her at Immigration. She will be on board in a few minutes".
And then the Korean Doll walked in (at this stage I thought she was a very tall Japanese girl). Struggling down the aisle with - I kid you not - 3 items of hand luggage, she knocked a few people in the head as she opened up every locker looking for space. Funny that, no space.
The nice man I am, I actually help her get her things in by juggling locker items. Otherwise we would still be on the tarmac. She was grumbling something as she sat down, so I commented, not quite under my breath, what do you expect when you get on last?
And her bling! I thought Snoop Dog was re-incarnated!
The mobile phone
I forgot to mention the Korean Doll was on her mobile as she came on to the plane, and continued as we sat in the seat, taxied away, and were sitting at the end of the runway ready to go. Now I know it is a myth that mobile phones actually affect plane electronics nowadays, and that not using a mobile phone is more for passenger comfort. But hell, should she get away with this as well. No I hear you say. Another, not quite under my breath - turn off the phone. She did.
Ear plugs
The number of children on a plane increases expotentially as the fare discount increases. Thus JQ20 had about 20 kids under 5, plus babes in arms. Lucky I bought the trusty ear-plugs.
The bag rustler
A guy sat next to me in the lounge with a magazine in a brown plastic type, crunchy bag. When he took it out, I could not resist a peek - would this be a flash of flesh. No - it was a manga magazine. That guy sat in front of me in the plane, at least I knew he had something to read.
But he did not read it, he proceed to move the bag everywhere. Into the seat pocket. Into the overhead locker. Back into the seat pocket. Under his feet. Back into the locker. It was so bizarre I should have laughed, but at one stage I tapped him on the shoulder and in my best english told him to leave the book and its crunchy bag in the overhead locker. He proceeded to move it around again. I forgot to say that this did not happen in quick succession - no it happened like torture, with 30 minutes or so between every movement. It was so bizarre that a Cabin Steward also came down and asked him "is everything all right , Sir?". He didn't ask me.
Photos in the plane
I don't now whether it was 3:00am or 4:00am but I know I was asleep...until I thought I heard someone taking photos. Not just some simple point and click job like mine, but the digitised sound of a 35mm proper camera. Surely I must be dreaming.
No. It's JQ20. So the guy "one out one back" is busily shooting the TV screen in front of him. I worked out what he was doing. He was taking a shot of every screen as it scrolled through the tourist information for Australia!! Another: I kid you not. Now he got my best reaction. I turned around, leaned over, and gave a scowl, and lifted up one of my eye covers (I was wearing blinkers) so that he could see the white of my eye. I think he knew I meant business.
Nara Park - Monday 14th March
 |
| Nara Park maps - great use of symbology |
Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 to 784 and is considered the cradle of Japanese culture, arts, and crafts. Buddhism first flourished here. The major cultural heritage sites in Nara have been registered on the UNESCO World Heritage list as an irreplaceable part of the cultural heritage of all humanity.
By visiting Nara Park and its many sites on a Monday I was likely to miss some of the usual crowds. I got away early, aiming to be on the sight seeing trail by 9:00am. The guide from the local tourist information centre was great, and the friendly staff had pencilled in a suggested route. Being me, I decided to take in as many of the minor temples and shrines in the precinct as I could rather than head for the 2 or 3 primary tourist destinations.
 |
| Tenjin Shrine |
 |
| Ukimodo Hall at Sagi-ike Pond |
Winding pathways led to the Saga-ike Pond and the beautiful Ukimodo Hall that in the stillness of the morning seemed to be floating on the glassy lake. Cherry and plum blossom buds hung pregnant, due to burst with colour in the coming days and weeks.
 |
| workers at Kasuga Wakamiya Shrine |
 |
| finished swept gravel |
 |
| novices at prayer ~ Enomoto Jinja |
Having admired the Kasuga Grand Shrine, the mid-morning calm was broken (or is that accentuated) by a low and melodious chant. At enomoto-jinja two young trainee priests (I assume) chanted on the outside landing as a senior priest undertook a ritual inside, around a shrine. The rhythmic chant continued for some minutes, accompanied by the gurgling of water cascading through a small channel nearby. I stood and listened a respectful distance.
 |
| Manyou Botanic Garden |
 | |||
| Spot the deer |
A few plum blossoms were out, as were some camellias. Alas, a few days or weeks early for the hundreds of plum and cherry trees to be in bloom - but it can be imagined.
 |
| The Great Bell |
 |
| Geez that bell is big |
Called "Nara Taro" it was made in the Kamakura-era (1192-1333) and is 3.9 m. high and weighs 26 tons.
 |
| A tile for eternity |
I understand that the maintenance of huge buildings like this would cost zillions of Yen, and that the tourist trinkets are important income for these places. I usually limit my trinket purchases, but I was struck by the invitation to purchase a roof tile for 1,000Y.
On the underside of the tile you could inscribe your words for the ages ahead. My words 'for the love and peace in eternity' were drawn from the Todai-ji Temple itself, its re-incarnations over 15 centuries. I finished off my tile with 'for my family' to symbolise that my family travels with me to this spot and everywhere in my heart and soul.
I can't go anywhere without drawing in some emergency management issue, and Nara Park was no different! The 'refuge site' designated the safe place to congegrate following an earthquake, when the greatest dangers will be from fire.
 | ||
| Earthquake Refuge sign ~ understandable using symbology |
Shine Road - Sunday 13th March
While my room at the Fujita Hotel might have been on special, food and drink prices reflected the 4 Star rating. On this sort of trip, the thought of paying 10,000Y to eat was not retained long. Off to find an 'izakaya' Japanese style pub.
There are eateries everywhere you go. Choice is not difficult if you use two basic rules. 1. go where Japanese are eating. 2. be willing choose something off a menu you may not understand. Now whether Shine Road was an izakaya or not, it was cheap, pleasant, quick and good food, and had a number of locals coming and going. The menu comprised seemingly endless varieties of meat and vegetable, as long as you wanted it fried and put on a stick. Very nice, especially the sweet potato.
After the long bike ride, a good Japanese beer was needed, so I ordered a Kirin, not in a glass but in a bottle - assuming it to be 360ml or so. Aw no, a bloody big bottle. Had to be polite and knock it off quick time.
 |
| Shine Road - in under the sign |
There are eateries everywhere you go. Choice is not difficult if you use two basic rules. 1. go where Japanese are eating. 2. be willing choose something off a menu you may not understand. Now whether Shine Road was an izakaya or not, it was cheap, pleasant, quick and good food, and had a number of locals coming and going. The menu comprised seemingly endless varieties of meat and vegetable, as long as you wanted it fried and put on a stick. Very nice, especially the sweet potato.
After the long bike ride, a good Japanese beer was needed, so I ordered a Kirin, not in a glass but in a bottle - assuming it to be 360ml or so. Aw no, a bloody big bottle. Had to be polite and knock it off quick time.
Which way is Nara again? - Sunday 13th March
The walk to Hotel Fujita from JR Nara Station was only 500m, along Sanjo-dori which is the main pedestrian route to Nara Park. Central Nara was surprisingly low-rise, with myriads of lanes accessing small shopping complexes.
The Hotel offered bikes for hire, the comfortable single-gear jobs, with a basket on the front. Extremely practical for holding a back pack with jumper, camera and water. I really enjoy being able to get out on a bike, even for a short time, to explore the back lanes or to enjoy observing locals being locals. I have had the pleasure of doing this in San Francisco, Kyoto and now Nara.
Since Nara Park and its numerous cultural sites was on the plan for tomorrow, I headed in the opposite direction westwards along Sanjo-dori before turning south along a canal-side bicycle road. Sunday afternoons for 20 years have been occupied by playing soccer, or watching one of my 3 kids play. Baseball is the major sport in Japan and it was not long before I passed by a game in progress, being watched by a group of reserved but attentive families. Along with some 5 other people I leaned up against the chain-wire fence, hoping to witness the game-winning home run. Alas, after some minutes, no-one had connected with a pitch, so I moved on.
Found the main Nara Fire Station and looked around like a kid in a candy store. I need to learn Japanese and then have the gumption to knock on the office door! Another trip maybe. Lanes criss-crossing crop fields got me to the Daian-ji Temple.
Such places are very spiritual. In the time I was there, a man sat almost motionless on a seat in what seemed to be quiet contemplation. I felt uneasy taking his photo, even from a distance, as if I would disturb his space.
As I write this blog some weeks after being in Nara, I have yet to actually work out where my bike odyssey took me. I did pass by this fantastic shrine which had an covered avenue of trees leading to it that was spectacular. A 'discovery' like this of the beaten track provides an enduring memory of the bike ride. At this place, a lone old man - maybe in his 80's - offered short simple prayers before engaging me with a smile. Then I was the only person at this place, that was established some 800 years ago.
Later on, I observed a lone farmer resting in his field. I wondered if his thoughts were like mine - this is the sort of landscape and rural dweller that have been consumed by Friday's tsunami.
By this time I had the bug for traveling along paths and tracks across the rural outskirts of Nara - or atleast I thought it was Nara. At a railway crossing I had to wait with 2 motor scooter riders as a single carriage train rolled by. I could see a station up the line to the left, and multi-storey buildings to my right in the distance that I took to be Nara. So turn right I did do.
Through kilometres of laneways, past at least 4 Volunteer Fire Corps sheds, and a few more rail crossings, I turn up at the Obitoke-dera Temple. By this time is was nearly 4:30pm, and there was only 4 Japanese folk and myself at the temple. I was keen to have a look around, and paid my entrance fee - not knowing that I was now entitled to the guided tour. At this point, one of the Buddhist priests greets me and led on the tour. A small amount of information was available in English, and I had read already on my tourist guide that this temple is renowned as a place where 5-month pregnant women come to pray for easy delivery of their child. This enabled me and my priest guide to communicate by gestures and recognition of symbols, not language. It was very nice. The priest insisted on me having the Temple guide, in Japanese, to take home. These experiences might seem trivial, but this was the intent of exploring these sites of rich importance and significance to many Japanese people. This makes the country special.
After the spiritual interlude, back on the bike, and in hindsight another wrong turn! Finally I got near enough to a main road to read the signs. Only 9kms to Nara - in the opposite direction to the way I was going! I need new batteries in the human GPS.
Atleast the ride in was flat, getting back to Hotel Fujita just on dusk which was handy as I did not have any lights. A great 3 hours!
The Hotel offered bikes for hire, the comfortable single-gear jobs, with a basket on the front. Extremely practical for holding a back pack with jumper, camera and water. I really enjoy being able to get out on a bike, even for a short time, to explore the back lanes or to enjoy observing locals being locals. I have had the pleasure of doing this in San Francisco, Kyoto and now Nara.
 |
| families urging on a home run |
 |
| my bike at Daian-ji Temple |
Found the main Nara Fire Station and looked around like a kid in a candy store. I need to learn Japanese and then have the gumption to knock on the office door! Another trip maybe. Lanes criss-crossing crop fields got me to the Daian-ji Temple.Such places are very spiritual. In the time I was there, a man sat almost motionless on a seat in what seemed to be quiet contemplation. I felt uneasy taking his photo, even from a distance, as if I would disturb his space.
 |
| a beautiful avenue |
As I write this blog some weeks after being in Nara, I have yet to actually work out where my bike odyssey took me. I did pass by this fantastic shrine which had an covered avenue of trees leading to it that was spectacular. A 'discovery' like this of the beaten track provides an enduring memory of the bike ride. At this place, a lone old man - maybe in his 80's - offered short simple prayers before engaging me with a smile. Then I was the only person at this place, that was established some 800 years ago.
 |
| Farmer resting in his field |
Later on, I observed a lone farmer resting in his field. I wondered if his thoughts were like mine - this is the sort of landscape and rural dweller that have been consumed by Friday's tsunami.
By this time I had the bug for traveling along paths and tracks across the rural outskirts of Nara - or atleast I thought it was Nara. At a railway crossing I had to wait with 2 motor scooter riders as a single carriage train rolled by. I could see a station up the line to the left, and multi-storey buildings to my right in the distance that I took to be Nara. So turn right I did do.
 |
| Obitoke-dera Temple |
After the spiritual interlude, back on the bike, and in hindsight another wrong turn! Finally I got near enough to a main road to read the signs. Only 9kms to Nara - in the opposite direction to the way I was going! I need new batteries in the human GPS.
Atleast the ride in was flat, getting back to Hotel Fujita just on dusk which was handy as I did not have any lights. A great 3 hours!
Quiet streets of Tokyo - Sunday 13th March
I got away early from the Hostel and wandered around Kuramae and Asakusabashi for a while. I found a Cafe Veloce. Unfortunately not like the super cafe next to Kyoto JR Station, this one was a pale imitation. No latte!
Of more importance and interest though was finding one of the numerous Volunteer Fire Corps 'garages' in Asakusa, just up from the hostel. The whole volunteer fire corps thing is amazing to me, and I harbour the notion of one day training with them! Fire brigades in Japan are some 400 years old, and originated when castles had there own fire teams to protect the rulers as well as the buildings.
In the context that the conurbation of Tokyo has 23 million people, the Tokyo Fire Department is a massive organisation with 81 Fire Stations (and 205 fire branches of that station) literally every few kilometres. The fire corps structure sits under the fire branch, is made up of volunteers, with the equipment usually being a hand-pulled pump. I kid you not! It is somewhat counter-intuitive. How can it be?
But think for a moment about the context. High density, adjoining buildings. Lots of wooden or light construction buildings. Congestion. Regular earthquakes. When you look up at a thirty storey building, it is easy to miss the little Fire Corps shed tucked away in the laneway. Volunteer Fire Corps in Tokyo exist primarily as the first responders in their immediate local area in disasters. The Corps are organised and disciplined. The minimal equipment is mobile.
Going in to the Toei Kuramae Station, and having to buy a ticket, it was only a few seconds of me staring at the instructions before the Station person came up to me to help. The smiling and earnest support he wanted to provide bought a smile to my face as well. Another great service interaction, but it is just more than that. I believe it is genuine interest in my welfare both as a customer and as a visitor. Don't expect this service in Sydney!
The Toei Line trip finished at Shinagawa and with 30 minutes to spare I took a walk around. Shinagawa is a working centre, made up mostly of high rise offices and government buildings. Of course on a Sunday morning I would not expect it to be buzzing, but it was literally deserted, with only a few 'company men' with briefcase in hand going off to the offices.
In a little park I did see a family of four practicing baseball, and what a peaceful and beautiful sight it was. Mother and son, father and son, amongst the concrete and glass.
The river side was quite nice and it too, peaceful. A great pathway lead around the river for some 3 kilometres. In quiet contemplation I could only imagine the teeming hordes of humanity that will occupy these spaces this time tomorrow.
In to Shinagawa Shinkansen station. Did I mention that I love trains? Since I did not have a Japan Rail Pass (which prohibits travelling on Nozomi bullet trains) I splashed out and had bought a ticket on a Nozomi Shinkansen to Kyoto. Stopping only at Shin-Yokohama, then Nagoya, then Kyoto. 560 kilometres in 2 hours 15 minutes! Yes, that makes it about 260 kph.
 | |||
| Volunteer Fire Corps station |
In the context that the conurbation of Tokyo has 23 million people, the Tokyo Fire Department is a massive organisation with 81 Fire Stations (and 205 fire branches of that station) literally every few kilometres. The fire corps structure sits under the fire branch, is made up of volunteers, with the equipment usually being a hand-pulled pump. I kid you not! It is somewhat counter-intuitive. How can it be?
But think for a moment about the context. High density, adjoining buildings. Lots of wooden or light construction buildings. Congestion. Regular earthquakes. When you look up at a thirty storey building, it is easy to miss the little Fire Corps shed tucked away in the laneway. Volunteer Fire Corps in Tokyo exist primarily as the first responders in their immediate local area in disasters. The Corps are organised and disciplined. The minimal equipment is mobile.
Going in to the Toei Kuramae Station, and having to buy a ticket, it was only a few seconds of me staring at the instructions before the Station person came up to me to help. The smiling and earnest support he wanted to provide bought a smile to my face as well. Another great service interaction, but it is just more than that. I believe it is genuine interest in my welfare both as a customer and as a visitor. Don't expect this service in Sydney!
 |
| Shinagawa ~ where's the traffic? |
The Toei Line trip finished at Shinagawa and with 30 minutes to spare I took a walk around. Shinagawa is a working centre, made up mostly of high rise offices and government buildings. Of course on a Sunday morning I would not expect it to be buzzing, but it was literally deserted, with only a few 'company men' with briefcase in hand going off to the offices.
 |
| A baseball family |
In a little park I did see a family of four practicing baseball, and what a peaceful and beautiful sight it was. Mother and son, father and son, amongst the concrete and glass.
The river side was quite nice and it too, peaceful. A great pathway lead around the river for some 3 kilometres. In quiet contemplation I could only imagine the teeming hordes of humanity that will occupy these spaces this time tomorrow.
 |
| Nozomi 221 - Kyoto here we come! |
Leaving Japan earlier than planned - Saturday night, 12th March
I finally got to K's House Hostel in Kuramae about 9:00pm and after checking in, went looking for food and a telephone. I had bought a 1,000Y phone card at the Hostel which should get me about 20 minutes talk time.
Corner grocery and convenience stores are literally on every corner. Going in to the Lawsons I found that they had nothing fresh to eat. I ended up getting the last 2 vanilla creme puddings - which I love but did not expect to be too filling! As I found out later, the lack of food was the first consequence of the earthquake in Tokyo, as workers were stranded overnight Friday, and bought out all the food in the city!
When I did get in contact with home, Liam candidly told me that Mum was not happy (with me being in Tokyo, as well as not contacting when expected) as well as letting me know of the extended family and friends making contact concerned about my welfare.
Veronica let me know the latest about the nuclear reactor problems (of which I had heard very little, as the constant TV coverage was focusing on the personal tragedies unfolding around Sendai).
As a consequence of these home concerns, as well as the uncertainty about the next few days, I decided to look at alternatives to leave Tokyo early. Back at the hostel I got on to the internet. Trying Qantas, I could not get a seat out earlier than Wednesday night.I tried Jetstar and found that I could get a flight out from Osaka on Monday night, so I bought it for $590A. An expensive long weekend was looming.
For anyone traveling to Japan, Hyperdia is a fantastic train timetable website. Using that, I worked out that I could get to Kansai Airport (Osaka) in about 10 hours with 9 changes of trains, if the Shinkansen was not working. I walked to the nearest JR station at Asakusabashi and confirmed that Shinkansen (bullet trains) would be running south on Sunday, so an option arises to go to Kyoto or elsewhere on Sunday. I got a Shinkansen ticket for 10:00am Sunday to Kyoto, with the intention of going straight to Nara.
Corner grocery and convenience stores are literally on every corner. Going in to the Lawsons I found that they had nothing fresh to eat. I ended up getting the last 2 vanilla creme puddings - which I love but did not expect to be too filling! As I found out later, the lack of food was the first consequence of the earthquake in Tokyo, as workers were stranded overnight Friday, and bought out all the food in the city!
When I did get in contact with home, Liam candidly told me that Mum was not happy (with me being in Tokyo, as well as not contacting when expected) as well as letting me know of the extended family and friends making contact concerned about my welfare.
Veronica let me know the latest about the nuclear reactor problems (of which I had heard very little, as the constant TV coverage was focusing on the personal tragedies unfolding around Sendai).
As a consequence of these home concerns, as well as the uncertainty about the next few days, I decided to look at alternatives to leave Tokyo early. Back at the hostel I got on to the internet. Trying Qantas, I could not get a seat out earlier than Wednesday night.I tried Jetstar and found that I could get a flight out from Osaka on Monday night, so I bought it for $590A. An expensive long weekend was looming.
For anyone traveling to Japan, Hyperdia is a fantastic train timetable website. Using that, I worked out that I could get to Kansai Airport (Osaka) in about 10 hours with 9 changes of trains, if the Shinkansen was not working. I walked to the nearest JR station at Asakusabashi and confirmed that Shinkansen (bullet trains) would be running south on Sunday, so an option arises to go to Kyoto or elsewhere on Sunday. I got a Shinkansen ticket for 10:00am Sunday to Kyoto, with the intention of going straight to Nara.
QF21 last plane in to Narita - Saturday 12th March
Qantas did a great job at short notice to put us up for the night. On returning to the airport at 8:00am for the planned 10:00am flight, Qantas were still not sure if the flight was going to leave on time, late, or at all. Given that the unfolding disaster in Japan was becoming clearer, fellow passengers all took this uncertainty reservedly.
We got away about 10:30am after filling up the plane with late transfer passengers from canceled JAL flights. About 1 hour out from landing, updates on the Tokyo situation started to be drip fed by cabin staff. First it was about the stoppage of all other flights at Narita, including internal to Japan so no transfers would happen. And for those passengers not able to transfer, advice was given that no accommodation as available around Narita. That news would have deflated a few!
A bit later was the news that there were no express trains running to Tokyo, so local trains would be the go. But be warned, they will be crowded and there could be a long wait.
After de-planing, we discovered that Narita Airport was effectively devoid of passengers, apart from us! Apparently our fight was the last one in, and no flights were going out. So the immigration area was a breeze. And the crowded local trains? Only our plane load was on them so they too were fairly empty.
I had to use the Keisei Line this time to get to Kuramae, rather than via JR. No problems, there were Keisei service staff at the desk to give passengers detailed instructions (in writing and with a mud-map) about which trains to use to get to the ultimate destinations. Another reminder of the superior service that is common in Japan.
I had promised Veronica to contact when I landed. I didn't work out well for that. I did find a pay-phone, but it needed a card. Having found the vending machine for phone cards, the machine would not accept notes (lots of electronic devices were playing up it seemed). So, no phone. And then I noticed that the next train was leaving in 5 minutes - and not knowing when the next one would be, I ran for that one.
Going to the Keisei Line platform I ran in to Bruce the Japanese Canadian guy I briefly chatted to at the Mercure. Bruce was able to use his mobile to email Veronica to let her know I had arrived.
We got away about 10:30am after filling up the plane with late transfer passengers from canceled JAL flights. About 1 hour out from landing, updates on the Tokyo situation started to be drip fed by cabin staff. First it was about the stoppage of all other flights at Narita, including internal to Japan so no transfers would happen. And for those passengers not able to transfer, advice was given that no accommodation as available around Narita. That news would have deflated a few!
A bit later was the news that there were no express trains running to Tokyo, so local trains would be the go. But be warned, they will be crowded and there could be a long wait.
After de-planing, we discovered that Narita Airport was effectively devoid of passengers, apart from us! Apparently our fight was the last one in, and no flights were going out. So the immigration area was a breeze. And the crowded local trains? Only our plane load was on them so they too were fairly empty.
I had to use the Keisei Line this time to get to Kuramae, rather than via JR. No problems, there were Keisei service staff at the desk to give passengers detailed instructions (in writing and with a mud-map) about which trains to use to get to the ultimate destinations. Another reminder of the superior service that is common in Japan.
I had promised Veronica to contact when I landed. I didn't work out well for that. I did find a pay-phone, but it needed a card. Having found the vending machine for phone cards, the machine would not accept notes (lots of electronic devices were playing up it seemed). So, no phone. And then I noticed that the next train was leaving in 5 minutes - and not knowing when the next one would be, I ran for that one.
Going to the Keisei Line platform I ran in to Bruce the Japanese Canadian guy I briefly chatted to at the Mercure. Bruce was able to use his mobile to email Veronica to let her know I had arrived.
Give up on the hostels
I have to accept it. A mix of being 50+, alone, and not a conversationalist tends to make me stick out like dogs balls in the hostel setting.
At K's House Kuramae (Tokyo) the hostel was very nice. The foyer and lounge area however was quite small, and filled with young, well traveled and connected people - eying each other off as well as providing recommendations about places to go to.
So where does a grey haired guy, old enough to be father of most of the travellers, sit in a room crowded with youngens? I felt like a Toolie at Surfers Paradise. And anyway, my hips don't allow me to squat on the floor like a yogi.
I know, off to my private room! Very nice in the scheme of hostels, but really, really small, with a small TV. Atleast it was not a bunk room. And the toilet is shared. This cost 3,900Y which was a fair hostel price (about $60A).
But then in Nara I got a room at the Fujita Hotel - probably 4 stars - for 5,000Y (about $80A), the room had a big double bed, desk, lounge, and its own shower and toilet.This hotel had its own bar and restaurant as well. Too expensive for me to use though.
The trick with getting this hotel was to go to the information desk at the railway station. They had a list of hotels with rooms available for that night - all on special, and in any price range you wanted.
Most towns have numerous accommodation places, so its worth the risk not making a pre-booking and seeking out the last minute bargain.
 |
| K's House Tokyo, Kuramae |
So where does a grey haired guy, old enough to be father of most of the travellers, sit in a room crowded with youngens? I felt like a Toolie at Surfers Paradise. And anyway, my hips don't allow me to squat on the floor like a yogi.
I know, off to my private room! Very nice in the scheme of hostels, but really, really small, with a small TV. Atleast it was not a bunk room. And the toilet is shared. This cost 3,900Y which was a fair hostel price (about $60A).
But then in Nara I got a room at the Fujita Hotel - probably 4 stars - for 5,000Y (about $80A), the room had a big double bed, desk, lounge, and its own shower and toilet.This hotel had its own bar and restaurant as well. Too expensive for me to use though.
 |
| Fujita Hotel, Sanjo-dori, Nara |
Most towns have numerous accommodation places, so its worth the risk not making a pre-booking and seeking out the last minute bargain.
I could help if I really wanted to - Saturday 12th March
I tend to shy away from aggressive situations, and have a particularly well developed disdain for violence, drunkenness and loutish behaviour. So how was I going to fit in with a bunch of rusted-on Sydney FC soccer fans? This question had troubled me in the weeks before the game, especially as I had read more and more of the fan forums. I was pleased I was traveling alone - I was expecting a few of them would be watching the game from the local Kaban (Police) station!
That sleep-depriving dilemma of mine was superseded by the real problems of the earthquake and tsunami.
Whiling away the time on a plane can be a challenge. My emergency service volunteer brain started to take over. Should I find one of the Kuramae or Ginza volunteer fire corps and offer my help? Should I make contact with my NSW Red Cross colleagues and say " Hey, I am in Tokyo, what can I do?"
While very noble of me, I also realise that the Civil Defence Forces, disaster volunteer services, Fire Departments as well as the volunteer fire corps number in the hundreds of thousands. And then there is the small thing of language!
The plane was somewhere over Guam when this sobering conversation with Veronica came to me:
T: "Hey, things seem pretty normal here in Tokyo. Yes, the Hostel is fine. Weather is nice. Haven't felt any after shocks"
V: "Kevin Rudd is advising all Australians to leave Tokyo. The Fukushima thing is getting more fuched. Apparently the water supply is contaminated and George Negus says there is a 150km exclusion zone"
T: "I found a volunteer Fire Corps station is Asakusa. Amazing. Volunteer sheds with human-pulled fire pumps all over Tokyo. Lovely ordinary people serving their communities, just like me"
V: "Your Mum is freaking out. Madeline says you are an idiot for going over in the first place. Go south for God's sake. Jetstar have flights out of Osaka. Get out of Tokyo. Change your ticket."
T: "I've got 4 days spare now I am not going north for the soccer. So I have volunteered with the Red Cross and will go up to Fukushima on Tuesday - or as close as we can with our paper protection suits."
V: "Do you remember when we got those macadamias from Basim. And I had to buy the heavy duty nut cracker...I suggest you don't go."
Fair call.
That sleep-depriving dilemma of mine was superseded by the real problems of the earthquake and tsunami.
Whiling away the time on a plane can be a challenge. My emergency service volunteer brain started to take over. Should I find one of the Kuramae or Ginza volunteer fire corps and offer my help? Should I make contact with my NSW Red Cross colleagues and say " Hey, I am in Tokyo, what can I do?"
While very noble of me, I also realise that the Civil Defence Forces, disaster volunteer services, Fire Departments as well as the volunteer fire corps number in the hundreds of thousands. And then there is the small thing of language!
The plane was somewhere over Guam when this sobering conversation with Veronica came to me:
T: "Hey, things seem pretty normal here in Tokyo. Yes, the Hostel is fine. Weather is nice. Haven't felt any after shocks"
V: "Kevin Rudd is advising all Australians to leave Tokyo. The Fukushima thing is getting more fuched. Apparently the water supply is contaminated and George Negus says there is a 150km exclusion zone"
T: "I found a volunteer Fire Corps station is Asakusa. Amazing. Volunteer sheds with human-pulled fire pumps all over Tokyo. Lovely ordinary people serving their communities, just like me"
V: "Your Mum is freaking out. Madeline says you are an idiot for going over in the first place. Go south for God's sake. Jetstar have flights out of Osaka. Get out of Tokyo. Change your ticket."
T: "I've got 4 days spare now I am not going north for the soccer. So I have volunteered with the Red Cross and will go up to Fukushima on Tuesday - or as close as we can with our paper protection suits."
V: "Do you remember when we got those macadamias from Basim. And I had to buy the heavy duty nut cracker...I suggest you don't go."
Fair call.
So you got to Tokyo. Why? - Saturday 12th March
There are a myriad of thoughts as news broke and the 'inconvenience' this might cause to my holiday....its more than 250kms from Tokyo...very little damage in Tokyo...I wasn't going to the affected area....I have spent a fair whack of money on this...
I also have taken a strong interest in the disaster management systems in Japan and was aware of very sophisticated warning systems for tsunamis and the like. I harboured a hope that warning did work and that casualties would be a minimum.
However, I got to see the news at the Mercure Hotel, and it looked bad. I found the power of nature demonstrated in the tsunami enthralling.
I chatted to a Japanese/Canadian guy at dinner who predicted that power problems in Tokyo will immediately affect transport and general business. He said that workers would be stuck in Tokyo (Friday night) and that food will be short - having been bought by stranded office workers.
Texts started coming in from family and friends. "Tony's not going is he?" Veronica left the decision to me. At this stage I was comfortable with waiting till the morning.
Qantas staff were great in the unfolding drama at the airport. They put me up for the night at the Mercure Hotel nearby after I had said I could not get back home tonight. I got a single room, so Veronica stayed over with me.
I joined the line for the shuttle bus back to the airport. Qantas checked us in but would not confirm we would be leaving on time or at all.
Madeline sent me a text - "is it worth it just for a football game?" Well, as this blog title said before the disaster happened, is not just about the football. I did find out from a Sydney FC guy flying on the same plane that there was only a 20% chance of the game being on. (It was cancelled later in the day, as was a J-League football for a month).
Veronica's eyes and tears said more than her words. I was aware that she would rather me not leave. However, in those hours on Saturday morning before the flight boarded I did consider the uncertainty my trip would bring family and friends.
Would I be trapped? Would I get to Tokyo and then be trapped by transport problems? I was going to be staying in Tokyo for 4 nights, and had intended to walk around most days. So transport problems were not a real barrier.
Would I be a burden to Japanese society by being there? To me this is a significant issue to consider. If power and resources are scarce for locals and those affected by the disaster, am I just one more mouth to feed? Yes, but relative tot he size of the population, miniscule.
Would I just be a disaster tourist - in reality or perception? In reality I was going to be going about 150kms north-east to Mito, which was affected by the earthquake by only minimally by the tsunami. But given the transport issues, Mito was off the agenda. Whether I was percieved as a disaster tourist, well thats for others to decide.
Risk of after shocks. Yes, a significant concern but one that would be shared by some 25 million others in Tokyo. In the previous 2 trips to Tokyo, Kyoto and other places the signs of potential disaster are everywhere. Active volcanoes, earthquakes, tsunamis, flooding, typhoons.
Travelling to Japan at anytime has an underlying level of risk of natural disaster. Is it an unreasonable risk? Probably not, and one that I am willing to accept.
In hindsight I must say I underestimated the extent of concern for my well-being, even if some aspects of that concern was misplaced by exaggerated reporting by Australian media in particular. It is comforting to realise that many people were genuinely interested in how I was getting on.
Back in Australia safe and sound, the ongoing problems with the Fukushima nuclear power plant strengthened the reasoning for returning home. Who knows how difficult it may have been by Sunday 20th to access and leave Narita Airport.
I have no regrets about firstly going over, and then coming back early. Sure, it was an expensive long weekend, but just money was lost and not my life. My experience needs to be put in to proper perspective with the (probably) 30,000 people who perished in the tsunami.
And I can get to Japan again if I want.
I also have taken a strong interest in the disaster management systems in Japan and was aware of very sophisticated warning systems for tsunamis and the like. I harboured a hope that warning did work and that casualties would be a minimum.
However, I got to see the news at the Mercure Hotel, and it looked bad. I found the power of nature demonstrated in the tsunami enthralling.
I chatted to a Japanese/Canadian guy at dinner who predicted that power problems in Tokyo will immediately affect transport and general business. He said that workers would be stuck in Tokyo (Friday night) and that food will be short - having been bought by stranded office workers.
Texts started coming in from family and friends. "Tony's not going is he?" Veronica left the decision to me. At this stage I was comfortable with waiting till the morning.
Qantas staff were great in the unfolding drama at the airport. They put me up for the night at the Mercure Hotel nearby after I had said I could not get back home tonight. I got a single room, so Veronica stayed over with me.
I joined the line for the shuttle bus back to the airport. Qantas checked us in but would not confirm we would be leaving on time or at all.
Madeline sent me a text - "is it worth it just for a football game?" Well, as this blog title said before the disaster happened, is not just about the football. I did find out from a Sydney FC guy flying on the same plane that there was only a 20% chance of the game being on. (It was cancelled later in the day, as was a J-League football for a month).
Veronica's eyes and tears said more than her words. I was aware that she would rather me not leave. However, in those hours on Saturday morning before the flight boarded I did consider the uncertainty my trip would bring family and friends.
Would I be trapped? Would I get to Tokyo and then be trapped by transport problems? I was going to be staying in Tokyo for 4 nights, and had intended to walk around most days. So transport problems were not a real barrier.
Would I be a burden to Japanese society by being there? To me this is a significant issue to consider. If power and resources are scarce for locals and those affected by the disaster, am I just one more mouth to feed? Yes, but relative tot he size of the population, miniscule.
Would I just be a disaster tourist - in reality or perception? In reality I was going to be going about 150kms north-east to Mito, which was affected by the earthquake by only minimally by the tsunami. But given the transport issues, Mito was off the agenda. Whether I was percieved as a disaster tourist, well thats for others to decide.
Risk of after shocks. Yes, a significant concern but one that would be shared by some 25 million others in Tokyo. In the previous 2 trips to Tokyo, Kyoto and other places the signs of potential disaster are everywhere. Active volcanoes, earthquakes, tsunamis, flooding, typhoons.
Travelling to Japan at anytime has an underlying level of risk of natural disaster. Is it an unreasonable risk? Probably not, and one that I am willing to accept.
In hindsight I must say I underestimated the extent of concern for my well-being, even if some aspects of that concern was misplaced by exaggerated reporting by Australian media in particular. It is comforting to realise that many people were genuinely interested in how I was getting on.
Back in Australia safe and sound, the ongoing problems with the Fukushima nuclear power plant strengthened the reasoning for returning home. Who knows how difficult it may have been by Sunday 20th to access and leave Narita Airport.
I have no regrets about firstly going over, and then coming back early. Sure, it was an expensive long weekend, but just money was lost and not my life. My experience needs to be put in to proper perspective with the (probably) 30,000 people who perished in the tsunami.
And I can get to Japan again if I want.
A necessary change of plans - Friday 11th March
The earthquake and tsunami north-east of Tokyo on Friday 11th March was breaking news as Veronica drove in to pick me up from work, to take me to Sydney Airport for QF21 leaving at 10:05pm.
As Veronica rang with the news I was in earnest conversation with my office buddie about disasters and the volunteer emergency services structures in Japan. Another work colleague had just spent 10 days around Tokyo on a disaster management study tour.
We got to the airport about 7:00pm, with news reports describing extensive damage from the tsunami and likely significant loss of life. About 8:30pm Qantas advised passengers that the flight would be re-scheduled for 10:00am next morning.
Ultimately I did fly to Tokyo, arriving at 6:00pm on Saturday 12th. Given the changing and escalating scale of the disaster and the uncertainty that brings for family and friends - I decided to fly home early. I left Japan on Monday evening from Osaka, about 500 kms south of Tokyo - having spent about 50 hours on the ground.
The Blog posts have been done belatedly. The good intentions of setting up a Blog beforehand came to nought, and soon as I arrived hone I was back into the work grind.
Those 50 hours started with hours of uncertainty and contemplation, and ended with the delights of Nara Park. I hope you enjoy these stories.
As Veronica rang with the news I was in earnest conversation with my office buddie about disasters and the volunteer emergency services structures in Japan. Another work colleague had just spent 10 days around Tokyo on a disaster management study tour.
We got to the airport about 7:00pm, with news reports describing extensive damage from the tsunami and likely significant loss of life. About 8:30pm Qantas advised passengers that the flight would be re-scheduled for 10:00am next morning.
Ultimately I did fly to Tokyo, arriving at 6:00pm on Saturday 12th. Given the changing and escalating scale of the disaster and the uncertainty that brings for family and friends - I decided to fly home early. I left Japan on Monday evening from Osaka, about 500 kms south of Tokyo - having spent about 50 hours on the ground.
The Blog posts have been done belatedly. The good intentions of setting up a Blog beforehand came to nought, and soon as I arrived hone I was back into the work grind.
Those 50 hours started with hours of uncertainty and contemplation, and ended with the delights of Nara Park. I hope you enjoy these stories.
Will the coat be necessary?
Just been looking at the Tokyo weather forecasts for the next 14 days. Amazing how the weather forecasting can be so reliable nowadays. Tokyo looks good. Low chance of rain (less than 30%) on each of the five days I will be there.
Not so good for Mito and game day versus Kashima Antlers. 80% chance of rain, and getting down to 2 degrees in the night. Wet weather jacket plus the good old Katmandu jacket, the RFS beanie, topped off by the newly acquired Sydney FC ACL scarf. Chances are the Sydney shirt will be outside the jacket - the same look as Feb 09 for the Socceroos against Japan. Might finally get good use out of that XXL shirt I bought than swims on me.
For the last 2 days in Nikko - the weather looks pretty rough. Nights are ranging from -2 to -5 over the next fortnight, but only low chance of rain. Days will hover around 10 degrees, so for a Blue Mountains boy that will be just nice. The mystery is how much colder Lake Chuzenji will be out from Nikko. Considering the ski season goes till end of March, got a fair chance it will be freezing.
So, does the big London Fog jacket get packed for one day's use? I am flying Qantas, so checked baggage weight is not an issue (no Jetstar Light this time). I like travelling light. Maybe a few layers of shirts will do the trick.
What I wil be taking will be a good pair of walking boots. I have a day trip to Mt Mitake west of Tokyo planned which includes a good 3 hours walking. If it does rain or snow, atleast I shall be safe on my feet. Nikko too is a place where the boots will come in handy with a fair amount of walking planned. Boots will keep the footsies a bit warmer (compared to joggers) when standing out on the terraces for the football games.
Not so good for Mito and game day versus Kashima Antlers. 80% chance of rain, and getting down to 2 degrees in the night. Wet weather jacket plus the good old Katmandu jacket, the RFS beanie, topped off by the newly acquired Sydney FC ACL scarf. Chances are the Sydney shirt will be outside the jacket - the same look as Feb 09 for the Socceroos against Japan. Might finally get good use out of that XXL shirt I bought than swims on me.
For the last 2 days in Nikko - the weather looks pretty rough. Nights are ranging from -2 to -5 over the next fortnight, but only low chance of rain. Days will hover around 10 degrees, so for a Blue Mountains boy that will be just nice. The mystery is how much colder Lake Chuzenji will be out from Nikko. Considering the ski season goes till end of March, got a fair chance it will be freezing.
So, does the big London Fog jacket get packed for one day's use? I am flying Qantas, so checked baggage weight is not an issue (no Jetstar Light this time). I like travelling light. Maybe a few layers of shirts will do the trick.
What I wil be taking will be a good pair of walking boots. I have a day trip to Mt Mitake west of Tokyo planned which includes a good 3 hours walking. If it does rain or snow, atleast I shall be safe on my feet. Nikko too is a place where the boots will come in handy with a fair amount of walking planned. Boots will keep the footsies a bit warmer (compared to joggers) when standing out on the terraces for the football games.
2 games on the cards
Tickets for the Sydney FC v Kashima Antlers game on 16th March have already been purchased in Sydney, only costing $32 which is a very reasonable price. Too bad another $2,500 is budgeted to get there and back!
On the day I arrive in Tokyo, it happens that Urawa Reds are playing Gamba Osaka in Saitama (Tokyo). Chances are I am going to take in that game as well. Urawa average just under 50,000 for their home games.
After that game, I will be on the lookout for a sports bar of some sort to try to watch the A-League Grand Final.
On the day I arrive in Tokyo, it happens that Urawa Reds are playing Gamba Osaka in Saitama (Tokyo). Chances are I am going to take in that game as well. Urawa average just under 50,000 for their home games.
After that game, I will be on the lookout for a sports bar of some sort to try to watch the A-League Grand Final.
Accommodation is all sorted
For the first time, I am taking the night flight from Australia with Qantas, so I should be in Tokyo by 9:00am on Saturday 12th March.
I have booked for 4 nights in K's House youth hostel in Kuramae - near Asakusa. Being an older single traveller, bunking with others can be hit and miss. So I have gone for a single room for the first night, and am on the 'wait list' for a single for the other 3 nights.
I look to the lounges and kitchens to be the best places in hostels to meet other people and share ideas and experiences. The room thing is a minor issue, and it allows conservative old me to go to bed at 10pm.
K's House hostels are great, with 2 in Tokyo, plus Kyoto, Horoshima, Ito, and Hakuba.
After Tokyo, is off to Mito, about 1 hour north by train. These 2 nights in a hotel will be my equivalent of a luxury stay. I will use Mito as the base to get to the football match in Kashima-kinju which is about an hour away on a local train line.
I plan to spend 2 nights at Narusawa Lodge in Nikko. The lodge is a minshuko, or family run bed and breakfast. I am really looking forward to this stay, although it is only for 2 nights. My other stays in Japan have been in youth hostels at one end, then 3 or 4 star hotels at the other.
The last day will be spent in old Narita before flying back to Australia on the night of 20th March.
I have booked for 4 nights in K's House youth hostel in Kuramae - near Asakusa. Being an older single traveller, bunking with others can be hit and miss. So I have gone for a single room for the first night, and am on the 'wait list' for a single for the other 3 nights.
I look to the lounges and kitchens to be the best places in hostels to meet other people and share ideas and experiences. The room thing is a minor issue, and it allows conservative old me to go to bed at 10pm.
K's House hostels are great, with 2 in Tokyo, plus Kyoto, Horoshima, Ito, and Hakuba.
After Tokyo, is off to Mito, about 1 hour north by train. These 2 nights in a hotel will be my equivalent of a luxury stay. I will use Mito as the base to get to the football match in Kashima-kinju which is about an hour away on a local train line.
I plan to spend 2 nights at Narusawa Lodge in Nikko. The lodge is a minshuko, or family run bed and breakfast. I am really looking forward to this stay, although it is only for 2 nights. My other stays in Japan have been in youth hostels at one end, then 3 or 4 star hotels at the other.
The last day will be spent in old Narita before flying back to Australia on the night of 20th March.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)