When my son Tim traveled to Japan in February 2009 in our extended family group to see Australia play Japan at Yokohama, Tim lost his wallet and passport lost - or had it stolen. The circumstances are a bit murky, but suffice to say that sleeping on the street outside a railway station somewhere near Yokohama is not necessarily a sensible idea.
Being Dad, I went with Tim as he reported the loss to the JR Railway Police as well as the Metropolitan Police. Also being Dad, I did point out Tim's apparent slack attitude to personal security.
Fast forward to August 1, 2011 at Matsumoto. A great afternoon with Matsumoto City Government officials extends to a convivial few hours at Fire Station #21. Yuri Kashiwazawa drops me off at the New Station Hotel, I wander upstairs to my room, sit down on the bed, the building and the bed rock with another earthquake - and I can't find my wallet!
I work through each time I took it out to share business cards. Has to be at the Fire Station. No big deal.
Next morning, I email off to Yuri about my loss, asking if he might be able to have some one look around the Fire Station. Nothing else I could do, so off I go to Kamacochi for the day. Returning to the hotel, I have a note from Yuri that the wallet has been found by a 'government official' on the street at the front of the firestation. Yuri also advises he will pick me up at 8:30am the next morning to take me to the Police Station to collect it.
With Yuri's support and translation, the wallet is retrieved. Intact. All cards. And the 25,000 Yen. Gotta love Japan.
This blog now at www.tonyj2japan.wordpress.com
- Tony and Veronica Jarrett
- Hazelbrook, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia
- A world Cup football game between Australia and Japan in Yokohama was the driver for Tony's first trip to Japan in February 2009. Since then, Veronica and Tony have traveled together, and Tony has been back two more times - an abbreviated holiday in March, 2011 at the time of the catastrophic earthquake and tsunami, and in July/August, 2011.
Guide to Nikko World Heritage Area and Tochigi Prefecture
Travelling to Japan soon? Not sure of which highlights to take in? Check out the great downloads at the Japan National Tourism Organisation website.
Be sure to take in the cultural and spiritual history of Japan at the Nikko World Heritage area about 2 hours by train north of Tokyo. Nikko is at the foot of Mt. Nyoho-san in western Tochigi and has developed as the temple town for Futara-san-jinja Shrine, Toshogu Shrine and Rin-no-ji Temple.
Get the most out of your visit to the Nikko World Heritage area is by engaging a local guide. While there are incredible visual treats to take in, there can be important elements missed, for no other reason than limited English language translations at the monuments, shrines and temples.
I was lucky enough to have Yoshiko Horie guide me around the key Nikko shrines and temples in her volunteer role with the Nikko SGG (Systematic Guide Group).
I can recommend Yoshiko's knowledge and interest, and her willingness to share the tremendous culture of Nikko with us foreigners!
Be sure to take in the cultural and spiritual history of Japan at the Nikko World Heritage area about 2 hours by train north of Tokyo. Nikko is at the foot of Mt. Nyoho-san in western Tochigi and has developed as the temple town for Futara-san-jinja Shrine, Toshogu Shrine and Rin-no-ji Temple.
Get the most out of your visit to the Nikko World Heritage area is by engaging a local guide. While there are incredible visual treats to take in, there can be important elements missed, for no other reason than limited English language translations at the monuments, shrines and temples.
I can recommend Yoshiko's knowledge and interest, and her willingness to share the tremendous culture of Nikko with us foreigners!
Fire Station 21, Matsumoto, Japan - Monday 1 August
Matsumoto Fire Station #21 covers Uchida and Kotobukidai areas south-east of Matsumoto CBD where 2,646 households and 6,357 residents are there. This cross-cultural exchange had been arranged via Yuri at the Matsumoto City Government (see another post on Volunteer Guides). One of his colleagues is a member of this Fire Brigade.
With typical Japanese precision and punctuality, Yuri got me there right on the appointed time of 8:00pm. On the apron were 3 or 4 fire fighters looking over equipment, running pumps and the like. With Yuri acting as interpreter, I got the gist from the Brigade Captain that this team had many similarities to my Hazelbrook Brigade:
As with all fire trucks in Japan, their 2 vehicles were immaculate. Not a scratch, everything polished. Even plastic over the seats! I was proudly shown the $A20,000 portable pump the Brigade recently purchased. Bloody hell! Takes 4 people to carry, but suits the needs of this Brigade where small roads and laneways mean accessing fires is always going to be difficult.
After 10 minutes or so on the apron, then upstairs for the meeting. I did ask how many members turn up usually for the meeting/training, and 10-15 are expected. The meeting had already started well and truly, with many cans of beer and empty food plates strewn around. This looked familiar my my fire station!
Through broken english and my interpreter buddy, we talked a lot about our respective roles, and the nature of volunteerism in Japan, and the long history of fire-fighting. Fascinating stuff. Again the similarities were uncanny - members of #21 Fire Station came from varied backgrounds including farmers, truck drivers, an architect, an electrician.
Each of the farmers bought in their produce for sharing at the 'meeting'. Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons. In line with my desire for cultural immersion and personal enrichment, I also gave other local fare a go. Like the fleshy stuff swilling around in cold black broth. Pass it round boys, yum. And what was that? Something from the ocean, and it got a good laugh when I ate it. Probably marinated cuttlefish.
I took with me a series of RFS action photos, but there was no computer at the Station. I had printed out a thumbnail of each photo and had a few word description of each in English and Japanese (thanks to BabelFish). This went down a treat and generated a lot of discussion of forest fires in Australia and particularly in my Blue Mountains home.
I got the Blue Mountains Christmas Fires DVD playing in the background as we continued to eat, drink and more increasingly talk crap. I must say though, that attention was quickly drawn to the video when the money shots of 30m flames roaring up and over fire fighters came on. No common language needed to interpret shock and awe.
My status as a visitor also meant that there seemed to be people assigned to refilling my cup of beer every time I took a swig. What I can't work out is, if I never got to finish a single cup, how come I found it quite a challenge to stand up straight and to speak without a little slur. All for the betterment of cultural exchange I say.
As the visit was pre-arranged, I had my RFS blues, and bought with me a collectors yellow shirt. This was proudly worn by the Captain. I had heard one guy being referred to as 'koala' during the night, and by chance I had a koala toy to give him. Funny as! In appreciation of the help he had given me during the day, I gave Yuri an RFS cap.
I have always found Japanese people to be very hospitable and generous. At this point, the guys were obviously discussing what they would give me in return, and what they did was extremely humbling. For various festivals and community events, all firefighters in Japan have a particular "Happi Coat" which is like a coat of arms, and indicates the organisation you belong to. They go back to the 1600's. I was presented with a Happi Coat.
In addition, I was presented with a Fire Officers cap. While my head is way too big for the cap, the generosity shown to me was, as I said, humbling.
Then to cap it off (no pun intended) as I was leaving the whole crew came downstairs and gave me a formal send off, including a salute. It really was a fantastic experience. In fact, of all the good things that have happened in what is now 4 visits to Japan over 30 months, this ranks in the top 2.
With typical Japanese precision and punctuality, Yuri got me there right on the appointed time of 8:00pm. On the apron were 3 or 4 fire fighters looking over equipment, running pumps and the like. With Yuri acting as interpreter, I got the gist from the Brigade Captain that this team had many similarities to my Hazelbrook Brigade:
- 45 members, about 25 active, about 10 likely to turnout for a call;
- 2 calls a month on average;
- many members work in the CBD, up to an hour away;
- very few young people joining. Most members 35 to 50yo;
- servicing a rural community on the foothills of the mountains;
- get together for meeting/training once a month;
As with all fire trucks in Japan, their 2 vehicles were immaculate. Not a scratch, everything polished. Even plastic over the seats! I was proudly shown the $A20,000 portable pump the Brigade recently purchased. Bloody hell! Takes 4 people to carry, but suits the needs of this Brigade where small roads and laneways mean accessing fires is always going to be difficult. 
After 10 minutes or so on the apron, then upstairs for the meeting. I did ask how many members turn up usually for the meeting/training, and 10-15 are expected. The meeting had already started well and truly, with many cans of beer and empty food plates strewn around. This looked familiar my my fire station! 
Through broken english and my interpreter buddy, we talked a lot about our respective roles, and the nature of volunteerism in Japan, and the long history of fire-fighting. Fascinating stuff. Again the similarities were uncanny - members of #21 Fire Station came from varied backgrounds including farmers, truck drivers, an architect, an electrician.Each of the farmers bought in their produce for sharing at the 'meeting'. Cherry tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons. In line with my desire for cultural immersion and personal enrichment, I also gave other local fare a go. Like the fleshy stuff swilling around in cold black broth. Pass it round boys, yum. And what was that? Something from the ocean, and it got a good laugh when I ate it. Probably marinated cuttlefish.
I took with me a series of RFS action photos, but there was no computer at the Station. I had printed out a thumbnail of each photo and had a few word description of each in English and Japanese (thanks to BabelFish). This went down a treat and generated a lot of discussion of forest fires in Australia and particularly in my Blue Mountains home.
I got the Blue Mountains Christmas Fires DVD playing in the background as we continued to eat, drink and more increasingly talk crap. I must say though, that attention was quickly drawn to the video when the money shots of 30m flames roaring up and over fire fighters came on. No common language needed to interpret shock and awe.
My status as a visitor also meant that there seemed to be people assigned to refilling my cup of beer every time I took a swig. What I can't work out is, if I never got to finish a single cup, how come I found it quite a challenge to stand up straight and to speak without a little slur. All for the betterment of cultural exchange I say.
As the visit was pre-arranged, I had my RFS blues, and bought with me a collectors yellow shirt. This was proudly worn by the Captain. I had heard one guy being referred to as 'koala' during the night, and by chance I had a koala toy to give him. Funny as! In appreciation of the help he had given me during the day, I gave Yuri an RFS cap.
I have always found Japanese people to be very hospitable and generous. At this point, the guys were obviously discussing what they would give me in return, and what they did was extremely humbling. For various festivals and community events, all firefighters in Japan have a particular "Happi Coat" which is like a coat of arms, and indicates the organisation you belong to. They go back to the 1600's. I was presented with a Happi Coat.
In addition, I was presented with a Fire Officers cap. While my head is way too big for the cap, the generosity shown to me was, as I said, humbling.
Then to cap it off (no pun intended) as I was leaving the whole crew came downstairs and gave me a formal send off, including a salute. It really was a fantastic experience. In fact, of all the good things that have happened in what is now 4 visits to Japan over 30 months, this ranks in the top 2.
Japan is not expensive
Contrary to many well known travel guides, Japan is not an expensive place to visit.
On average over 12 nights, accommodation was Y5,900 per night, about $A80. For Tokyo (Terminal Hotel, Ueno) and Matsumoto (New Station Hotel), both very very comfortable 3-Star hotels, and were booked via Hotels.Com and Expedia. These single rooms both included TV, tea making, decent shower/bath and comfortable beds. I take the view that the room is just a place to sleep and don't get hung up on the finery. Yes the rooms are small, but does it matter? The key for me is access, choose a place within a few hundred metres of the transport hubs. They aren't hard to find.
At Nikko, I chose to stay at the Nikko Park Lodge which is hostel type accommodation.Through a mix-up with my booking, I ended up having a 'suite' which is unusual for a hostel. It actually was bigger than the Ueno and Matsumoto hotels, and had a small kitchen as well! Great value, fantastic view.
All the other costs bundled up (food, beer, transport, entry fees etc) averaged Y8,000 per day - about $A100. If that daily cost (Y14,000 or $180) is too much - just delete the beer! A beer generally costs more that a decent meal! Then again, delete the food and keep the beer.
On average over 12 nights, accommodation was Y5,900 per night, about $A80. For Tokyo (Terminal Hotel, Ueno) and Matsumoto (New Station Hotel), both very very comfortable 3-Star hotels, and were booked via Hotels.Com and Expedia. These single rooms both included TV, tea making, decent shower/bath and comfortable beds. I take the view that the room is just a place to sleep and don't get hung up on the finery. Yes the rooms are small, but does it matter? The key for me is access, choose a place within a few hundred metres of the transport hubs. They aren't hard to find.
At Nikko, I chose to stay at the Nikko Park Lodge which is hostel type accommodation.Through a mix-up with my booking, I ended up having a 'suite' which is unusual for a hostel. It actually was bigger than the Ueno and Matsumoto hotels, and had a small kitchen as well! Great value, fantastic view.
All the other costs bundled up (food, beer, transport, entry fees etc) averaged Y8,000 per day - about $A100. If that daily cost (Y14,000 or $180) is too much - just delete the beer! A beer generally costs more that a decent meal! Then again, delete the food and keep the beer.
Photography & Beer Museums at Ebisu - Thursday 28th July
The Ebisu Garden Palace is an office, shopping and cultural precinct that includes the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography and the Yebisu Beer Museum. Heading for the Beer Museum, the Museum of Photography was a nice surprise. There were 4 major exhibitions going on, and given it was already beer-o-clock, I just went for two. The Story of Children in Photography was interesting in that it ran through the evolution of photography, the pioneers and technology.
The Enari Tsuneo exhibition Japan and its Forgotten War - Showa was something else. Tsuneo is a photojournalist who has devoted nearly 40 years to documenting the negative consequences of Japan's Showa era wars, on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Fales Manchukuo, The Children's Manchukuo, and Island of Wailing Ghosts. Check out the link.
Black and white photography can be stunning at the best of times, and Tsuneo is an expert. In the Hiroshima and Nagasaki elements, a black and white portrait of an atomic bomb survivor is next to a colour image of a bomb relic - melted glass, a burnt cap. and then another portrait and the cycle continues. The juxtaposition is stunning and is reflected in the those aged survivors who, at least, are 70 years old. What horrors do these eyes portray? How had their lives been directed by the atomic bombs? Haunting.
Back into the real world......the Beer Museum. A bit disappointing really, not much history and back story, rather just an up market beer tasting lounge. Did top it off though with a very nice Yebisu beer from the Beer Hall next door.
Hama-ryku Gardens - Thursday 28th July
When Veronica and I were here in September 2009, we took this tourist ferry to Hinode Pier. This time, Hama-ryku Gardens were my target. In 2009, the ferry was packed with lots of overseas visitors and locals. This time around, it was barely a quarter full, reflecting the uncomfortable rainy season but more the drastic drop off in tourism since the March earthquake and tsunami.
The gardens present another stark contrast to the dense built up environment that surround. It is absolutely quiet, the pond waters still and glassy. People wander around in quiet contemplation. Yet turn around and there is the un-escapable reality of Tokyo high rise offices. 
Hama-ryku Garden is the family garden of the Tokugawa Shogun. Nice work if you can get it. The Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house originated in 1707. It is these sorts of cultural relics that draw me to Japan.
The entrance fee is a reasonable 500Y and includes Green Tea served with a confection. For us tourists, you were also provided with a cheat sheet to explain what you did and when - like holding the cup in your left hand, and rotating it clockwise 180 degrees. Might sound corny, but in this setting it did let my imagination run wild - hey is that Shintaro over in trees?
Unfortunately my genetic hip condition did not allow me to squat on the floor, so I could not completely transport myself back to Shogun times.
Just got to mention Shimbashi Station, the nearest to Hama-ryku. The station is set in the bowels of a complex of 3 new office towers. it is 7 star quality. Granite and marble pasages leading to the centre of the earth. As if David jones basement had trains running through it. I little bit different than Penriff.
 |
| Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house |
Hama-ryku Garden is the family garden of the Tokugawa Shogun. Nice work if you can get it. The Nakajima-no-ochaya Tea house originated in 1707. It is these sorts of cultural relics that draw me to Japan.
The entrance fee is a reasonable 500Y and includes Green Tea served with a confection. For us tourists, you were also provided with a cheat sheet to explain what you did and when - like holding the cup in your left hand, and rotating it clockwise 180 degrees. Might sound corny, but in this setting it did let my imagination run wild - hey is that Shintaro over in trees?
 |
| Hama-ryku Gardens |
Just got to mention Shimbashi Station, the nearest to Hama-ryku. The station is set in the bowels of a complex of 3 new office towers. it is 7 star quality. Granite and marble pasages leading to the centre of the earth. As if David jones basement had trains running through it. I little bit different than Penriff.
It's pay back time - Thursday 28th July
I have only ever experienced fantastic service and hospitality from Japanese people to me as a tourist. already in these 2 days I have been afforded service and support only dreamed of at home. But this little anecdote is not about them, its about me.
It may come as a surprise to some of you, but I really am a nice guy. Today on the Taito Community Bus service from Ueno to Asakusa, a person who well and truly met the aged criteria for AIDER services, this bloke stood up to get out at the same stop as me. But he caught his shopping bag on the seat and became flummaxed as older people can get. I unhooked him and we got out together. The smile and repeated words of thanks (I hope, anyway) was uplifting.
Being nice - as Japanese folk do all the time to me - is not bound by language.
It may come as a surprise to some of you, but I really am a nice guy. Today on the Taito Community Bus service from Ueno to Asakusa, a person who well and truly met the aged criteria for AIDER services, this bloke stood up to get out at the same stop as me. But he caught his shopping bag on the seat and became flummaxed as older people can get. I unhooked him and we got out together. The smile and repeated words of thanks (I hope, anyway) was uplifting.
Being nice - as Japanese folk do all the time to me - is not bound by language.
Commuters - Thursday 28th July
Having got up real early to ring Veronica, I wandered around looking for a cafe place. Found one, at the end of an orderly queue of office commuters who were patiently waiting for the doors to open at 7:30am. I have seen some good queues in my days in Japan, but this one would have to be in my top 2. Precise spacing. Still, not hopping from foot to foot. Against the wall and out of the way of other pedestrians.
Chowing down with my Japanese fare of my latte from one of those instant machines, and my ham and cheese toasty, I sat next to an office worker at the bench looking out onto Asakusa-dori. No glances, no conversation, both of us fixed. And we weren't the only ones doing this, we had probably thousands of comrades doing the same thing this morning.
Chowing down with my Japanese fare of my latte from one of those instant machines, and my ham and cheese toasty, I sat next to an office worker at the bench looking out onto Asakusa-dori. No glances, no conversation, both of us fixed. And we weren't the only ones doing this, we had probably thousands of comrades doing the same thing this morning.
Tokyo revisited - Wednesday 27th July
Left the printed itinerary at home again, but atleast this time I had it on a thumb drive to print out sometime. My room at the Ueno Terminal Hotel is just about big enough to swing a cat in, but comfortable and reflects the price I paid for it. (6,100 yen is about $80).
Another bit of detaiｌ Ｉ ｌｅｆｔ ｂｅｈｉｎｄ ｗａｓ the local dialing codes to make international phone calls. Now that took some work to find, but the first contact back with Veronica was the absolute priority.
Don't call me a train spotter, but.....I took the Toden Arakawa Line street car from Minowabashi to Waseda. One of 2 remaining street car lines in Tokyo, it was a great 15km trip through the suburbs of northern Tokyo. For real train spotter action, I saw a guy at Ebisu station (JR Yamanote Line if you must) with a long recording mike stretching up to the ceiling mounted speaker, to record the details of the next train action. And I just thought is was the British.
Off to the J-League Football to see Kawasaki Frontale play Hiroshima Sanfrecce in a Japan Cup game at Shinmaruko. Absolutely fantastic. And the marketing...you don't see this at a Sydney FC game. Outside the Stadium, there is a great park, and in it must have been 20 tents and stalls selling merchandise, food and drinks, and running activities. Thousands of Kawasaki fans (especially families) hung around here. And you could take your food and drink into the ground!
When I got in to find a seat (I got a ticket to the general area) there were bags, books and clothes all over the good seats. What's this? People mark out their territory and then go elsewhere to chat, eat and drink. Can you picture this at an Aussie footy game?
We even had a 'seat nazi' who would greet new fans as they came up the stairs and find them the required number of seats. This includes moving people over one or two seats, so that single spare seats are used up. Had to see it to believe it, and all the locals are absolutely comfortable with it.
And... what about the person who comes around during the game to collect rubbish? Or the people at every exit stair again with bags to collect rubbish?
The Japanese soccer fans are world renowned for their fanaticism - but it is an inclusive form. Songs are sung the whole game (90 minutes for those non-believers) not just by the core fan group who lead the singing and drum beats, but men, women, young and old in the whole ground. Quite spectacular and exciting. By the way, Kawasaki Frontale won 3 - 1. By coincidence, my Sydney FC jersey was the same colour as Kawasaki, so I looked like a home fan. Well, apart from the causcasian look, grey hair, hairy legs, round eyes and .............
Travelling back to Ueno at 9:30pm the trains coming from Tokyo were absolutely packed - and trains on most lines run every 5 minutes or so.. Surely these thousands of people actually live on those trains.
Another bit of detaiｌ Ｉ ｌｅｆｔ ｂｅｈｉｎｄ ｗａｓ the local dialing codes to make international phone calls. Now that took some work to find, but the first contact back with Veronica was the absolute priority.
Don't call me a train spotter, but.....I took the Toden Arakawa Line street car from Minowabashi to Waseda. One of 2 remaining street car lines in Tokyo, it was a great 15km trip through the suburbs of northern Tokyo. For real train spotter action, I saw a guy at Ebisu station (JR Yamanote Line if you must) with a long recording mike stretching up to the ceiling mounted speaker, to record the details of the next train action. And I just thought is was the British.
Off to the J-League Football to see Kawasaki Frontale play Hiroshima Sanfrecce in a Japan Cup game at Shinmaruko. Absolutely fantastic. And the marketing...you don't see this at a Sydney FC game. Outside the Stadium, there is a great park, and in it must have been 20 tents and stalls selling merchandise, food and drinks, and running activities. Thousands of Kawasaki fans (especially families) hung around here. And you could take your food and drink into the ground!
When I got in to find a seat (I got a ticket to the general area) there were bags, books and clothes all over the good seats. What's this? People mark out their territory and then go elsewhere to chat, eat and drink. Can you picture this at an Aussie footy game?
We even had a 'seat nazi' who would greet new fans as they came up the stairs and find them the required number of seats. This includes moving people over one or two seats, so that single spare seats are used up. Had to see it to believe it, and all the locals are absolutely comfortable with it.
And... what about the person who comes around during the game to collect rubbish? Or the people at every exit stair again with bags to collect rubbish?
The Japanese soccer fans are world renowned for their fanaticism - but it is an inclusive form. Songs are sung the whole game (90 minutes for those non-believers) not just by the core fan group who lead the singing and drum beats, but men, women, young and old in the whole ground. Quite spectacular and exciting. By the way, Kawasaki Frontale won 3 - 1. By coincidence, my Sydney FC jersey was the same colour as Kawasaki, so I looked like a home fan. Well, apart from the causcasian look, grey hair, hairy legs, round eyes and .............
Travelling back to Ueno at 9:30pm the trains coming from Tokyo were absolutely packed - and trains on most lines run every 5 minutes or so.. Surely these thousands of people actually live on those trains.
Fying Sydney to Narita - Tuesday 26th August
This time things were smoother - no changes to flight plans. But funny how other things pop up. \you know when you are checking in a two groups of about 100 high school kids goes to the Group Check-in Counter and you wonder where they will be seated?
Well when I chose one of the 2-seaters at the back of the plane, it did not say 'you and your seat buddy are the only adults in the 30 rows at the back of the plane'. Having said that - Japanese adults sleep anywhere, especially in trains. And these kids have learnt well as they all went off to sleep before the plane was taxi-ing out from the Gate.
Well when I chose one of the 2-seaters at the back of the plane, it did not say 'you and your seat buddy are the only adults in the 30 rows at the back of the plane'. Having said that - Japanese adults sleep anywhere, especially in trains. And these kids have learnt well as they all went off to sleep before the plane was taxi-ing out from the Gate.
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